We camped in Northern Guatemala just outside of Poptun at the Farm Ixobel; to break up the drive from Flores to Rio Dulce’. It was a family owned property since the 70s. The food was excellent, and they had a bakery on site for fresh bread and sweets. We walked the property trails back to a spring feed pond and roasted marshmallows over a Coleman burner stove for S’mores! Before turning in for the night. It was a relaxing evening. Ironically this is one of the few nights that roosters did not wake us up at 5am and we were on a farm! Then we moved on toward Rio Dulce’. Weather has been great! 84 during the day, 65 at night!
The kids (including Scott) really wanted s’mores, but the fire pit was back in the jungle and the bugs were really bad. So, we opted for the porch of the restaurant & used our Coleman burner! Perfect!
During our recent trip to Guatemala, we were treated to one of the most spectacular experiences you could ever imagine. Hidden along the shores of Lake Izabel, 16 miles outside of Rio Dulce, is the only Hot Water falls in the world. Fueled by underground volcanic activity, the water gets HOT! After a short walk through a jungle trail, you round the corner to see a magnificent waterfall cascading into the natural pool below. Steam lingers at the waterline, as the hot water from the falls meet the cool waters of the flowing river.
This phenom is a spectacle to behold, and even more glorious to experience! Wading through the river, making your way to the hot water showering down, sends shivers through your body, even chill bumps, as the two temperatures meet on your skin. The joy is in finding that perfect place where the waterfall does not scald you, and the river doesn’t freeze you. Once located, you just sit in one place taking it all in. The jungle surroundings, and sounds of the falls, add to the ambiance.
Scott getting a mouthful of steaming hot water!
Cayen & Adam
Once you are acclimated to the water, you can swim under the falls and enter caves that feature narrow paths, occasionally having to submerge your head to continue swimming forward. The steam can take your breath away at times, but the sites are magical. Swimming behind, underneath, and through the worlds only hot waterfalls! What more could one ask for?
After the swim, we made our way up a steep trail to the top of the falls, where there are hot pools of water, inviting you for a sauna bath, some so hot they were boiling!
He found the perfect Hot Shower!
Perfect Day!
Furthermore near the end of the trail, lies damp, dark mud. Due to the hot water, this mud is in a paste like form. Legend has it, if you cover your skin in this aromatic mud, your skin will be baby soft (either that or a cruel joke on the gringo’s). We found the spot, and each person started lightly putting some of the hot, slimy mud onto our leg or arm. I decided if its worth doing, it was worth going all the way. So, I grabbed two hand fulls of the sloppy muck, and smeared it on my face and the rest of my body.
All in!
Ashley trying to obtain silky smooth legs!
Adam, joined in, and before long, we looked like two swamp creatures! Ellie, was less than impressed, as evidenced by her scowl, of disapproval, on her face.
We let it dry, and then headed back to the hot water to clean off. And lo and behold, my skin was silky smooth! Almost oily feeling. You absolutely must make this one of your bucket list items. I have checked it off, but added another box, so I can return again later!
Just outside of Flores is a Natural park, complete with wild howler monkeys & boars. While horses & ponies roam freely. Probably the most peaceful place we have stayed. Until around 2am we woke to the deep screeching howler monkeys in the trees around us. Of course being awake I had to use the restroom really bad, but I was determined I would NOT leave my tent no matter how bad I had to go! The monkeys sounded so terrifying my mind started racing with what they would do to me if one pounced out of the tree at me!
The next morning we drove into town & found a quite little restaurant for breakfast on the island of Flores. Once we were full & the men had drank all the coffee they could we walked the island & then took an hour boat ride around the island.
We decided to search for Davis Falls near Alta Vista Belize. Its a quick ride from Placencia to the Hummingbird Hwy. After making the turn toward Belmopan, its just a few miles to mile marker 14 1/2. Thats the easy part. A large sign marked the turn, announcing Davis Falls 8 miles.
As we turned onto the path that would prove to be the most accessible, I knew it was going to be a fun 8 miles. The path was lined with rocks, presumably brought in to stabilize the path from washing out. We weaved back through grass, orchards, and jungle. There was a little mud, along the way, just enough to splash on the fender wells. We continued on, noticing the fruit hanging low, ready to pick. The citrus aroma filled the air, especially as I made a point to run over the over ripe oranges that littered the road. As each orange squished out, we were getting deeper into the jungle.
Branches hung across the narrow path in places. As the muddy paths turned into deep rutted mud bogs, we were constantly rolling the windows up and down, to keep the mud from slinging inside. Occasionally, it was too late a large smelly clump of mud would splat on someone. I cant say I intentionally forgot to roll up the window a time or two, but I cant say I didn’t either…Then we came to what appeared to be the end of the trail.
Staring right in front of us, was a rushing river. It must have been a couple hundred feet across, probably more. I could see there was rocks in the bottom, so decided why not. We were determined to get to the falls, although it was getting late in the day. Dropping off the edge of the bank the first time was a little nerve racking. How deep was it? Heavy rains lately definitely contributed to the depth. At times, we pushed through 3 feet of water or more. The large rocks formed rapids, adding to the suspense. We just kept steady moving and drove out the other side. Whew! We made it. No problem. Some friends were behind us driving a 4×4 Infinity. At one point, the river washed washed over his hood as he forged across the rapids.
We drove on and had a blast crossing the river some 7 more times, each time with its own challenges. Mix in more mud and ruts, and you have what I call a good time. We actually saw 3 more signs pointing us towards the falls, although they seemed randomly placed. At intersections of paths, you were on your own to decide which way to go. Sometimes we were successful, other times, we had to turn around and find our way back through the mud bogs. We finally stopped for lunch and discussed where we thought the falls were.
The paths were getting increasingly difficult, and while I was ready to take on whatever was ahead, our friends were concerned with tearing up their daily driver vehicle. By this time, we were covered in mud, and completely lost. We made the decision to turn around as we already had been driving nearly 2 hours without finding the falls. The fun part was following the path back, choosing different lines to make it through without getting stuck or hitting a tree as we slid around corners or skidded past stops due to the greasy mud we were driving in. At the last river crossing, we made a stop to go for a swim. We may not have made it to the falls this time, but we had nearly as much fun just trying to get back to them. The river was surprisingly tolerable water temperature. We cooled off and swam for a half hour or so, before leaving to go back to the Hummingbird.
We will be back! The next time, we will find the elusive Davis falls. I cant wait to tackle to trip. If you want to tag along and have a 4×4 vehicle, let me know. As we drove into the sunset headed home, I had to remind myself of the quote that I have been living by since we began travelling Central America, “Its the journey, not the destination”. Today was one of those days that reiterated that to me. Sun, fun, friends, food, off roading what more could you ask for!
This was our first Christmas away from all our families. It was tough, but not as bad as we envisioned since we had plenty of friends around. We had a large gathering at Albert & Anita’s house on Christmas day and spent the day eating, playing games & visiting.
We spent the weekend at Mountain Pine Ridge. I had heard that it had been raining heavily for the past couple of days, so I was excited to see the muddy roads leading up to our friends cabin, where we were going to stay.
We left the paved road heading for the reserve. To my dismay, the roads were dry. Almost dusty. I wanted to test my Land Rover potential climbing to 3000 feet with the ruts and mud, and torrential rain we met the last time we visited the mountains. However the skies were blue, and the roads pretty well maintained. Still lots of obstacles and pot holes to avoid, made for some excitement. And we were able to find some mud holes along the way. Enough to splash mud and spray the windshield.
Part way up, we stopped at Hidden Valley Inn for a tour of the resort. A quaint “little” resort sitting on 7200 acres, featuring countless waterfalls, one at 150 feet tall. The hiking trails spanned over 90 miles throughout the property, all with natural beauty. The main house was actually a personal residence in the 70s. It had a wood burning fireplace, for the cool mountain nights, a restaurant, gift store, and unique bar area, feeling more like an elegant parlor in an old Plantation home. The pool was inviting, surrounded by landscaping, a hot tub, and natural screened in observatory. We were invited to view one of the 12 suites on the property. It was ornately decorated, a bathroom with claw foot tub, private outdoor waterfall shower, and a screened in common area with hammocks, between the two large bedrooms. Maybe we will be back.
We pulled into the cabin, 50 acres of mountains and valleys. The view was picturesque. The pine trees for which the reserve is named,scattered across the ridges inviting us for some trail riding.
We set up our tents, each picking the location that we wanted for views.
A campfire felt really good in the chilly air of the mountains. We sat and visited until well after dark before settling in for some good sleep in the cool breezes.
The next day we got up and made a Belizean breakfast of scrambled eggs, beans, cooked on the fire, and one of my favorites, fryjack. Fry Jacks are essentially puffed bread. Light and soft, I could eat a dozen! Some people stuff them with cream cheese or other ingredients, but they ate great by themselves or dipped in the beans.
We decided to go site seeing, and ended up at Rio On Pools. This is a natural wonder nestled right in the mountains, amongst the river, scattered with waterfalls and rapids. The sun was perfect for getting a tan/burn, and the water was “crisp”. Angela and I waded in up over our knees, enjoying the cool sensations. Adam, Ashley, and the kids waded in before full on swimming. At one point Cayen asked to “slide ” down the rapids. Adam joined him splashing and pushing themselves for greater speeds. Laughter was the word of the day. All enjoyed the few hours we spent relaxing. The sun was perfect as the temps got up into the upper 80s.
On the way back, Adam rode with me so we could hit some of the two track trails. We had fun traversing the ruts, mud holes, rocks and wildlife. We checked out trail after we trail, riding them until they ended, mostly off the side of a cliff.
Scott & Adam took off with the two girls to teach them how to off road! They loved it!!
Back at camp, we got another fire started and began cooking dinner. Ashley had brought some strawberry pie filling, cream cheese, and bread. We made pies over the fire, along with marshmallows. Again the night ended with great conversation, getting a glimpse inside Ashley’s head was an experience!
Another perfect nights sleep, being serenaded by the cool breezes and occasional rain shower.
Breakfast was eggs Ala Mexicana. A mix of scrambled eggs, green peppers and garlic. Nothing beats a good meal whole camping!
We packed up the rover and we’re about to head out, when our friend returned from Spanish Lookout with a western dairies pizza. It wasn’t quite lunch time, but it’s always a good time for pizza!
Day 2 we made our way down to Poza Rica. The country side changed from farm fields to rolling hills of citrus farms. It was easy driving until we reached town and then the heavy traffic was on & was quiet a shock to Adam who was used to the calm of the Nebraska small town.
We drove into Poza Rica Inn at a reasonable hour, so there was plenty of time to go swimming & set up our tents in the back parking lot. We love staying here because it is a beautiful hotel that will let us use all the amenities for 250 pesos ($16. U.S.) a night!
Scott & the kids were always up to something fun!
We have camped here on many of our trips and we always have the same problem! There is a rooster on the next property that starts crowing at 5am and will not stop! As well as a dog that sounds like he has permanently lost his voice, OH and a street sweeper that comes in and cleans the parking lot on occasional visits! But, we still love it and will go back again!
We flew from Augusta to Houston on December 10th which would be the first leg of our trip to Belize with Adam, Ashley & the kids! I found the Chick-fil-a restaurant in the Atlanta airport for one last chicken biscuit. Then by noon we would be in Houston where we were reunited with our Land Rover & headed South.
Once we arrived in Houston T.J. picked us up at the airport and drove us to Laura’s brothers house where we were reunited with our Land Rover they stored for us. I think Scott truly missed his rig!
Then on to the house to see Laura when she got home from work! That evening they treated us to there favorite local restaurant and then drove thru the well-to-do area’s of town to look at Christmas lights! They had to be the BEST light displays I have ever seen! You could even hire a horse & carriage complete with a coachman with a top hat to drive you from house to house!
After a terrific evening with Laura & T.J. we took off the next morning on our way to meet Adam, Ashley & Kids in Brownsville to begin our trek thru Mexico! Along the way we happened upon a great little BBQ place. We decided we had to have some good BBQ before we left the States! It was delicious & the owner was one of a kind!
We finally reached Brownsville & reunited with the Swierczek’s. Ashley had found a mobile home park that also allowed campers to stay. Surprisingly it was very hard to find someplace to camp unless you had a large RV, most wouldn’t allow us. They allowed us for one night, but it was not the normal for their park! Once we arrived there was lots of talking & excitement from everyone. I think the kids were most excited to get to Mexico & the beaches! Ashley just wanted warm weather! It was amazing how much the kids have grown in the 7 months since we seen them last. A good nights sleep & we were ready to GO!
Last night we slept in our tent, among moss covered trees, deep in the South Texas swamps, surrounded by over 300 alligators, venomous snakes, coyotes, bobcats, and deer. They were all in there natural habitats. No barriers, cages or glass separating us from the natural wild life. A truly unique experience (especially wandering to the bathroom in the pitch black of night). Thanks Texas for offering this great experience!
We didn’t see any eyes watching us from the water……but how many were we will never know. Alligators are hard to spot! The park ranger told us we could walk about 10 minutes on a nature trail and we would come to a mother alligator & her babies we could watch from an observation deck, unfortunately when we woke the next morning, the rain had set in.Signs of danger everywhere!
Brazzo Bend State Park was beautiful & well maintained. It will stay on our list of places to stay on our way back into the states.
Crossing the border from El Salvador to Guatemala went smooth, with the exception of checking out of El Salvador, the line took maybe a little over an hour and there was only 4 people in front of us!
Our last night of our trip we stayed at a really cool hostel in Coban, Guatemala last night. It cost about $10/U.S. per person for a private room with 2 single beds, which easily slide together!!The food was world class in the cafe too! By far the nicest hostel we have stayed in.
We left the campsite behind in San Ignacio, headed to the border, full of anticipation! This was the start of our journey through Central America, and we were excited! We got an early start, ready for anything we may encounter with the crossing. It should be a fairly easy crossing as we had been through this border a couple of times before.
As we pulled up to crossing check point, we were waived into parking spots along the side, to allow us to get out and do the necessary procedures.
First up was to take our window sticker from the window, showing our Belize insurance policy. In Belize, you are required to purchase insurance while there. It is fairly inexpensive, and coverage is minimal, but its a major deal if you do not have current insurance on your vehicle, and you get caught. I had a friend who had this happen. He called me upset from the police check point, because they were wanting to haul him to jail. They are serious about the infraction. Fortunately, after I spoke with him, and my friend negotiated with them, he had to pay a “fine”, and then sent him on his way, told to get insurance. Lesson learned, even though it wasn’t my friends car, he was the responsible party driving it.
After suspending the insurance, because we planned to drive back through, we headed back to the border crossing building. The next stop, was to pay the exit fee for leaving Belize. This is a $37.50 bze fee.
The exchange rate in Belize is $2.00 bze to $1.00 USD. We received the receipt of payment and headed to the next window, where the receipt was checked, and our passports stamped.
We had a vehicle, so we had one more stop to make before leaving Belize. There is a wooden door between the reception desk and the afore mentioned window. There are no signs. marking the door, but you will need to go through the door to the other side of the building. This is where you go to the Customs counter. He will stamp the passport and vehicle permit, showing that you have taken the vehicle back out of the country. Make sure you bring the car permit, your passport, and vehicle registration.
As you leave the building you will be approached by the money changers. These are guys that make their living exchanging money from USD, pesos, or Belize dollars to Guatemalan. money. This is a legitimate service, and there are no ATM’s. The exchange is set, and there isn’t any bartering on the exchange. At the time we crossed, it was offered at 7 to 1. This is not the full exchange, but the difference is what the exchangers make.
Now, back to our vehicles, we pulled up to the exit of Belize. We showed proof of paying the exit fee, and our passports, before passing through. We were officially out of Belize, in no mans land, just before entering Guatemala!
Straight ahead was a large double bay building, open at both ends. You pull into the left bay, and slowly drive through. Make sure your windows are up, as this is the pesticide spraying required to enter Guatemala. Once through the building, pull over to the left hand side along the building. Take a mental note of your license plate number, and walk back across the street to the little white building with a glass window. You pay for the pesticide spraying here. It was 18 Q (Q is the abbreviation for the Guatemalan currency, Quetzals). That equated to approximately 2.50 USD. The exchange rate is about $7.75 Q to $1.00/USD.
Once you get your receipt, you walk back across the street and enter into the line to enter Guatemala. You will need your pesticide receipt, passport, and vehicle title and registration. The first line is very simple, you just present your passport, tell the agent where you are headed in Guatemala, and they stamp your passport. The next thing you need to do is ask for a foto copia. They will send you around the corner to a store to make copies. It cost 1Q per copy. or if you have a copy of your passport with you, which I recommend to carry several copies of your passport, and drivers license, and title with you, you can just have the agent stamp it along with your passport, and you can avoid the hassle of getting another copy. What they are looking for is a copy of your passport with the Guatemala stamp in it.
Now you go to the next line to your left, where you will fill out paperwork to bring your vehicle into the country. This process is the slowest, as they must fill out all of the info for the vehicle, you must fill out some additional paperwork, and then they go out to look at your vehicle. This probably took 15 minutes this time around. Once they returned from looking at the vehicle, we were given a paper to carry over to the cashiers window behind us. This window is guarded by the military, bearing an assault rifle. He also acts as the liaison for the line. Actually there are several different officials around bearing menacing guns, but they are all friendly, and there for your protection.
We paid 160Q, and then went back to the car permit line, where we showed the receipt. The agent walked with us to the vehicles, and installed our actual sticker permit in the window. We were finished with the formal border crossing.
Back in the vehicle, we made our way out of the parking area to a barrier, where another border agent waited to see our paperwork. They looked at our passport again and vehicle permit, moved the barrier and waived us through.
We crossed the bridge into Guatemala, where we approached a toll booth. I have actually waived to the toll collector as I drove through without paying in the past. I had heard it was an unofficial gringo tax. I was right behind a local who just drove on through this time as well. However, the agent stepped in the road, in front black ng my access. I was told it was 50Q for the bridge crossing. I asked why the car in front of me didn’t pay. She acted like she didn’t understand and said 50Q again. When I pressed the issue, she ran over and dropped the barrier in front of my vehicle so I couldn’t pass. She came back and said I needed to pay 50 Q. Reluctantly, I began digging up change. By this time, the line was backing up. We finally paid the fee, using USD, Belize dollars, and Quetzals. At least she had to work for that fee! We were officially in Guatemala!
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